vue de cuisinier

Moved!

2010-03-31T00:28:00.001+11:00

Merry Christmas!

2009-12-12T22:42:00.004+11:00

The festive season only means one thing for the hospitality industry: rampage.

It's based on the 'cause and effect' theory; people want to celebrate, and we are here to accommodate! How we manage to feed over 2500+ people a week in a table-clothed restaurant is beyond me; but we manage to keep a relatively high level of quality, because the turnover of food is so fast that everything is fresh! - It's because no matter how much food we seem to order, it never seems quite enough to feed you lot! I laugh when I see the 30 boxes of vegetables, 15 boxes of meat and ducks, 6 body-length Styrofoam boxes of fish that come in - then try to fit it all in a coolroom barely the size of my bathroom!

I'll tweet a photo of it soon, but imagine playing a game of Tetris... and you are losing.

But at the end of the day, as long as you are happy with your food and your experience at the restaurant I work at; I don't mind the ridiculous roster and hours. Just as long as someone doesn't forget that I also need a good feed and lots of good booze this time of year.

Here's a pic of some pork belly I've been experimenting with during the season (trying to perfect my recipe):

Mmmm new improved crispier skin w/ seared Hokkaido scallops

Brined belly from a suckling pig, marinated with sechuan peppercorns and boiled, then coloured on the grill

For Charity

2009-11-29T23:22:00.006+11:00

The festive season in a successful commercial kitchen does not allow for basic human necessities like sleep and a half descent staff meal (hence very short-tempered chefs; who still have to feed the mass hoarde of hungry customers - 270 in 3 hours), making Mondays and Tuesdays seem like Fridays and the weekend to feel like about the 3rd or 4th layer of hell (bearable, but cannot be survived without screaming) I did however found some time to cook with love; giving out some soup at my local church to support a missionary.

Of course, as a proud chef, it can't be just any soup:

Roasted Garlic soup & almond soup w shredded white chicken, blood orange and herb salad

This dish is fairly simple, but very fiddly, having 3 parts: soup, chicken and salad.

Soup:
8 whole garlic bulbs
1 white onion, finely diced
1L chicken stock
270mL thickened cream
1 ciabatta loaf
large handful of slithered almonds

Roast the garlic in a 200 degree oven for 30 mins, or until the cloves are soft enough to squeeze out the insides. Meanwhile, sweat the onion in some olive oil for a couple of minutes (don't forget: season!), then add the stock and the cream. Bring to the boil, reduce to simmer for 10 minutes. Tear out the insides of the ciabatta and toss it in. When the garlic is ready, squeeze out the insides straight into the pot, add in the almonds, then blitz with a hand blender.

White shredded chicken:
2 chicken breast fillets
3 coriander root
2 large knobs ginger
3 shallots, white only
1L water

Bring water, coriander root, ginger, shallot whites and a handful of salt to the boil. Reduce to simmer and in with the chicken - 7 minutes; check if it cooked by making an incision in the fattest part of the breast, if yes, shock in ice water. The leftover liquid can be used to make awesome chicken soup.

Shred the chicken, making sure to tear it along the fibres, not tearing through them. You'll see what I mean when you start shredding. If you need a video demonstration let me know.

Blood orange, coriander, mint, salad:
Segment the blood oranges, pick and wash the coriander (lots of dirt in these things), pick the mint. Mix some of the orange juice with olive oil and whisk to dress the salad.

Serve the whole thing hot or cold. Good either way.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go back to work to feed the next wave of guests.

scallop boudin recipe

2009-11-09T20:34:00.005+11:00

Scallop Boudin w/ pea puree; salmon roe

You may or may not have seen this on the menu at Manu Fiedel's L'etoile bistro in Paddington; but a French head chef taught me how to make this long before it appeared on any menu in Sydney!

I would like to share with you the recipe:

500g FRESH scallop meat (roe off)
300g cream
3 egg whites
handful of chives
salt to taste (read method)

Blend the scallops, then pulse in the 300g cream, egg whites and a teaspoon of salt- Be careful not to overblend it, creating bubbles! Bubbles = no good. At the same time, make sure all the ingredients are well combined (you'll end up with a white paste-like consistency).

Fold in the chives.

Put a small amount in the microwave for 10secs, to test whether there's enough salt in the mix, adjust salt in mix as necessary.

Wrap up about 5 tablespoons of mix in glad wrap;
then wrap that over with cling film, ending up with a christmas cracker looking thing.

Poach in simmering water for 15 mins.

Slowly remove the sexy thing out of it's shell, then serve with:

- Blue swimmer crab miso soup
- Cauliflower puree or soup, salmon roe, truffle oil
- pea puree
- (how Manu does it) a bisque or crustacean jus
- Parsley risotto, fried garlic/eschallots
- Let your imagination go wild

Hope you can use this simple but elegant dish for your next dinner party ;)

Exclusive Look

2009-10-29T16:09:00.005+11:00

All the bosses weren't around so I snuck in a couple of happy snaps in the kitchen:

3 pots of milk/cream heating up to make anglaise; all at one time! Ultimate multitasking: Ice cream, cardamon anglaise and a creme patissierre

No wastage: every part of any ingredient can be used

Breakfast from a chef mate next door (adjacent restaurant): French toast and crepe with fresh fruit and berries; whipped cream and maple syrup - even the staff meal looks classy!

Our breakfast: Korean pancakes! as the Koreans say: mmm yeeaaamm

Hmm this mix is on it's last days...

But as long as no one is going to shit themselves it's ok... just don't give any to me to eat O.o

This is how clean I like to keep my section: if you don't like it that your food takes an extra minute to arrive because I'm wiping down and don't want to work in a dirty, chaotic warzone (and your food to be made in one) - go to macdonalds.

Schnitzel Mix Recipe

2009-10-26T21:47:00.004+11:00

Lamb Backstrap w. crumbed lamb's brains; mash, ratatouille.

You can crumb and fry literally anything; chicken, beef, fish, brains, potatoes and even pancakes:

This time, I'll stick on the savoury side and give you my (Alsatian) restaurant version of a schnitzel mix; instead of the ol' flour and egg, mix:

100g flour
16g paprika
pinch of cumin
5g sea salt
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 eggs
pinch of pepper
shot of cognac
3g tobasco
20g dijon mustard
16g milk

(don't be afraid to double the recipe if you think it's not enough)

Whisk all that together really well (especially watch out for powders that aren't mixed properly) - mixing it in an electric mixer is best if you can be bothered cleaning up after.

Coat your desired product in the mix, then into panco (Japanese) breadcrumbs and into the deep/shallow fryer. If you're not sure how hot the oil should be? if it sizzles when it enters the oil, it's good, if it's smoking, it's not.

Bon Appetit!

Food Crawl!!

2009-10-20T18:47:00.020+11:00

A couple of days off can only mean one thing: Food Crawl!! Load your wallet, wear elastic-wasited dress jeans, make sure the SLR memory card is empty and mates that have conversation that won't end in awkward silence after prolonged exposure (and can handle their wine).

Let's start with @ Manta Restaurant with mixed oysters; Clare De Lune, Bateman's Bay; Coffin Bay Pacifics; Sydney Rocks from forgotten location. Nothing beats a freshly shucked oyster... Except 3 different kinds of freshly shucked oysters.

House-made fries with black truffle, parmegianno regianno - ohh, the sexiness.

A whopping 1.5kg 5+ Wagyu rib eye on the bone w/ bone marrow and field mushrooms

Steamed blood orange pudding w/ lemon curd ice cream - needed something light after all that heaby meatness and truffleness.

Next, it's off the a fellow chef's house for more steak...

...with roasted veg, "Chef's Salad" (Beetroot, green beans, honey-glazed carrots) and of course cafe de paris!

Then for 2nd dinner, to the dark dens of El Bulli, Surry Hills: 6 tapas to share and Paella!

...And Churros with Dulce de Leche! Needed the Spanish chocolate and honey nougat ice cream from Subsolo; mmmmm...

Then it was time to get up for brunch at the Alliance Francaise Centre for some Parsley soup...

...And Cassoulet (if it had garlic breadcrumbs it would have been the best one I've ever tasted).

Finished it with Citron Muelle-Fuille

A stopover @ David Jones Foodhall oyster bar for more Sydney Rocks and Chandon NV Rose

Then head over to Lunch at:

To have some crumbed lamb brains with a corn fritter and fennel and broad bean salad

Blue Eye on Mussel broth, potato gnocchi and (more) broad beans

Duck confit with beetroot puree, baby spring onions, braised red cabbage

And now I am broke, but happy and full. Stomach can take more, but probably should have cut down on the wine consumption...

SO FULL BUT OH SO GOOD!

Care to join me next time? Up for the challenge? Let me know.

Mi Paella

2009-10-11T23:12:00.017+11:00

Are you ready...
Ah, Paella! Only the Spanish are able to have a dish so full of colour and expression!
Remember; just like stir fry, prepare everything before hand - especially because there are so many ingredients, you are bound to forget something! (In these photos I forgot the peas, and I ran out of saffron - sad face)

Ingredients:
1 onion, finely diced
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 kg calasparra rice (or Arborio if you're at woolies)
3 truss tomatoes, cut into chunks
handful of chicken tenderloin
handful of scallops
handful of prawns
baby squid
2 whole chorizos, cut into 1cm rounds
1/2 kg mussels
handful of frozen peas, or blanched green beans
kitchen spoonful of smoked paprika
3 pinch saffron
300mL chix stock
salt, jap chilli flakes, 1/2 bunch parsley (finely chopped)
*for a 24cm paella pan (serves 4) - alternatively, use 2 saute pans

First, using olive oil: sear the chicken, scallops and prawns - then keep aside in a mixing bowl. Don't forget to season the food!

Then, cover the base with more oil and start to sweat off the onions, garlic and chorizo (flavours the oil). Season with a pinch of salt.

Once the aromats start to caramelise, it's time to add in the rice; stir it around to coat it in the lovely flavoured oil.

Meanwhile mix the meats and seafood mixing bowl with the paprika;

Then add the tomatoes with the rice, letting it cook down just a little, then in with the stock.

Also, in with the meats and seafood (And all the paprika'd resting juices) spread evenly. The peas and saffron should go in now, too.

And also the Mussels - the juices these guys release? oohhh baby.

Let those mussels open up, and the liquid reduce down; have a taste once there's not much liquid left - rice still crunchy? add a bit more water. Smell burning? Turn it off!

Once all the liquid is nearly evapourated and the rice is al dente (not soggy), take it off the stove and wrap it in foil - letting it rest for at least 15 minutes!

Voila! Smell that! Hope you got that crusty (but not burnt) bottom! Top it off with chilli flakes and parsley flakes (Was too pov to pay for parsley this time)

Optional: serve with a side of scotch fillet.

Poor Man's Food #1

2009-10-10T01:56:00.005+11:00

So I've made a few expensive purchases; we all splurge a little now an then.

The only problem is that on a chef's salary, it means making a few sacrifices. Like not having money for food on my days off!

Fortunately, I planned for this day and stocked on the bare essentials before running out of dosh:

Fried eggs with smoked paprika, soy sauce and pickled veg on rice

Pickled veg is the original poor man's food; used to preserve vegetables that's about to die - it keeps, and is so versatile with any rice dish: it is what the pickles is to the hamburger; it will add flavour to that simple dish that just needs that extra layer of flavour to stimulate your senses.

So, my pickled veg recipe:

2x Lebanese cucumber - halved, deseeded, cut into shards
1/2 carrot - peeled, cut into shards
1 knob ginger - thinly sliced
1 wom bok leaves - roughly chopped into shards
400mL jap rice vinegar
100g Sugar
pinch of salt

Salt the sharded cucumbers and leave to drain for 2 hours (to draw out the moisture). Meanwhile, heat the sugar and vinegar together until bubbles appear, then cool. Combine everything into a jar, and voila - ready for that next emergency!

The Young and Reckless

2009-10-08T02:22:00.005+11:00

A bunch of guys and girls are in for work experience, and they're hanging around the deep fryer.

These things hold up to 20 Litres of oil ranging from 160 to 220 degrees.

These 16 year olds are having a conversation on whether it's hot or not.

"there's no bubbles or smoke how can it be hot??"

"but it can cook stuff!"

"I'll show you it's not hot!"

*proceeds to dip his hand into the oil and back out*

"see? not hot!"

...

...

...

F******************************************K!!!!!

Hosting a Paella Party

2009-10-06T20:36:00.006+11:00

You bought that big paella pan. Now what? Have a party around it!

The number one lesson in cooking paella? Patience. Same with steak; searing and resting are the most important parts. Make sure you sear the meats to a nice caramel before taking them off, and returning them to the pan during the braising stage. Rest that Paella for at least FIFTEEN minutes; covered in foil to keep the heat in.

Cooking time (including resting) will end up to about 40 minutes! So what can your guests eat until then?

Salad of baby cos, radicchio, parmesean and free range bacon

How about sautee'ing a handful of king prawns with lots of garlic (about 8 cloves), smoked paprika (a tablespoon), chilli flakes (a pinch), flamed off with a shot of cognac and finished with a squeeze of lemon juice - you don't even need a picture to make you drool over that image!

Before you start your Paella, grill off some chorizo with some olive oil and finished with lemon juice - serve with tomato sauce; that and a loaf of bread is enough to stop worrying about your guests complaining about being hungry.

The secret to Paella Prep? Do it the night before! (especially if it's for lunch the next day) Cleaning and scoring that squid, chopping up the onions, capsicums, cleaning the mussels, splitting the beans, cutting chorizo - there's a crazy amount of chopping to do, and unless you're a pro - it'll take you forever! Do it up to 24 hours before, and you'll be cruising.

Speaking of day before, Sangria!

My sugar syrup recipe: 200ml water:200ml caster sugar, 2 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick

Sangria: Cut up strawberries, blueberries, kiwi fruit and apples - top off with a bottle of wine, some tequila, brandy and rum to taste. Add spiced sugar syrup to taste as well - leave to soak overnight. To serve, balance with schwepps lemonade to desired alcoholic strength.

Stay tuned for an in-depth paella recipe!

The Chef Next Door

2009-09-29T17:05:00.009+10:00

Here's my story - I worked for Manta Restaurant for a day, then I heard China Doll was looking so I bailed and started at my current job.

It's not that the food was bad; it's just that their commitment to serving top level produce was not matched by the number of people eating at the restaurant - therefore, costs had to be cut elseswhere - no kitchenhands during the day, always running out of stock and produce when it gets surprisingly busy; things like that. Tough working conditions.

But I really wanted to dine and try the food; and a $447 bill between 3 covers later - I did; and it was good. I had to check if my wallet was still in my pocket walking back to the car, and one of my dining colleagues nearly had a heart attack, never having to pay that much for a meal in her life.

So why does it cost so much?

Let's start with some 'Manta Martinis' (martinis with lychee), and 2 glasses of cab sav, starting with angel fries: house-made fries generously topped with parmesean regianno and black truffles (thanks to knowing the guys in the kitchen, an extra handful of truffles). Pair that with some Clare de Lune oysters from Bateman's Bay, and you have something to enjoy the sunshine with.

Then, something from the kitchen:
Scallops on Jerusalem artichoke puree, minted peas, white asparagus. Very kind, guys!

A raw selection plate later (I ate it before taking the photo, but if you want to have a geeze, check out NQN's blog post on Manta), the main course (along with a side of fish and salad somewhere underneath that plate):

Oh yess - $210 worth of wagyu rib eye on the bone, with bone marrow and field mushrooms, sides of Bearnaise, salsa verde, mustards - more value than Rockpool at least.

Still, a bit shaken by the bill though. I *am* on a chef's salary.

View Larger Map

Don Corleone's + learning a trade

2009-09-28T00:03:00.013+10:00

Chef whites drying enjoying the sunshine

I am currently taking a journey; a self educated path in food Photography/food blogging with my new Nikon D90, and the no.1 lesson I have learnt is: no matter how good the food tastes, it doesn't matter if it doesn't look good in the picture (I get paid to cook, not to take nice pictures).

So with photos from my massive 17-300mm telemacro lens, I would like to show you one of my favourite places to grab some fresh meat. And cheese.
Welcome to Don Corleone's Delicatessen. The most authentic Italian Deli around, who's passion for their product is so true, that you can even see them arguing with flambe in front of the deli - Grandfather, sisters, mothers, brothers; all getting into the action - but of course, in front of the customer they're all smiles and good coffee.

Yes kid, I was also in awe when I saw the produce in here.

Look at that range of cheese; the Pecerino infused with black truffle is a must try, but they've got a great range of Spanish, French and Italian cheeses - and they make their own ricotta - comes in low fat, too!

The meats! Oh the meats - hams and prosciutto from all over Italy and Spain - All Freshly sliced to order! From your Jamons to a whole leg of ham on the bone! Nothing tastes as good as freshly sliced - I guarantee you*.

Gourmet antipasto galore! You know what I love? Ceasar Salads with white anchovies in them; oh yesss...

Yes Kid, I want some EVOO too, but which one? I like The Little General. Wait, that might have come out wrong.

Mozerella, Italian drinks, hand made pastas and pasta sheets, gelato - have I yet to mention the home made pastas, lasagna and stuffed cannelloni?

my tip: If you're having a bacon and egg roll from here (or with freshly sliced and grilled pancetta) - make sure you ask for some napolitana sauce on it - freaking awesome!

If you're in the area check it out:

View Larger Map

China Doll

2009-09-23T00:49:00.019+10:00

If they Head Chef asks you to come eat as a guest of the restaurant, you don't say no. As a matter of fact, if the Head Chef asks anything of you, you don't say no. Unless the question is about you doing something wrong.

So I brought my family to my place of work (after all that ranting about not eating where I work; I know - shut up) and have to say; I really enjoy the experience!

Somehow, the restaurant is busy on a Tuesday night - about 80+ in the restaurant while all the other restaurants were near desertion: The locals must really like chinese food.

"Don't order too much" Chef Frank says.

He hasn't met the stomachs of me and my sister.

After a beautiful apple and vanilla mojito on the house (and ordering a bottle of wine); we get started. And of course, due to my noobness to food photography, and also politeness to not let people wait while I take slow-exposure shots without a tripod, the following took place:

Meet John; your local fryer and wok chef.

Quiet before the (dust) Storm

Sashimi of kingfish and ocean trout with blackened chilli dressing, apple and microherb salad and homemade pickled ginger. Some days it tastes better with the kingfish, others the ocean trout - so don't ask which is better.

prawn, scallop and snake bean steamed dumplings
Szechuan style (hot and numbing) pork ribs - tasty. Szechuan-y.

Kurobuta pork and peanut San Choi Pow: if you don't know kurobuta - it's the wagyu of pork - if you're a pork lover: what are you waiter for?! go get yourself a belly!

On to mains:

We had this dish: And my photos of it are not any good - my sister's favourite.

I wish I had a photo of the Pork Belly w chilli caramel and Nam Pla Phrik - the bomb.

Back: Panang curry with wagyu beef shin - on the menu, it says Penang; so I was excited - but the flavours are Thai. So, not as excited.
Front: Tea Smoked Free Range Thirlmere Duck w Tamarind & Plum - the most awesome dish. On the Planet.

(Whas was) Dessert of Sago with passionfruit and coconut cream, and steamed banana pudding w chocolate ganache, choc sorbet and cardamon anglaise.

Finish with a dessert cocktail of VSOP Hennessy XO flamed with cointreau and star anise, clove, cinammon (don't sniff it, though *arf* what a kick!), and I leave, understanding why this place is so packed all the time... with corporates.

View Larger Map

ever wonder...

2009-09-22T08:47:00.011+10:00

...why Chef's do not eat at their own restaurants?

Yes, in some cases (more often than I'd like to admit); we know of the dodgy practices that go on in the kitchen; that chef that who never washes his hands, using the same chopping board for everything the whole day, the dirty sink used to wash dishes and defrost the squid. *vomit*

No, it doesn't happen at mine. As a matter of fact, I'm proud to tell you that we are so clean, we have to clean the whole kitchen 3 times a day! A bit of an overkill, but hey, if you have chefs in charge that like the place clean - I won't complain.

Back to why I don't usually like to eat in my own restaurant:

1. The magic is gone: Atmosphere is just as important as the food - you know what to expect, and you can meticulously and critically pick apart a dish because you know exactly what it's supposed to look and taste like, and where it came from - whether it was fresh or frozen, or 3 days old.

2. Working with people that you spend more time with than your family, you're comrades in arms whether you like them or not - being served by people you usually serve with does feels a bit awkward. It's like a slave being a slave to another slave.

Yes, strange imagery; but lets face it chefs and waiters - we're servants to the demanding masses that provide our paychecks.

3. I eat this stuff everyday; for free! why do I want to pay for it?

We like to eat, just preferably not where we s*it. Or is it the other way around? O.o - Dedicated to my Hayman buddies.:

How can you eat food prepared by these clowns? *doodoodoo*

Before the sexual harassment in the workplace meeting

It gets very hot in the grill section
As I said; once you know the real personality behind the food - will it taste the same? What things have you eaten, that at first tasted good; until someone said or you saw something that dramatically changed your opinion?

To be one of Them

2009-09-12T22:14:00.012+10:00

Signs that you are not a very good food blogger:

1. Your Iphone takes better photos than your digital camera.
2. You accidentally eat most of the dish before you realise that you forgot to take the photo
3. When dining with other food bloggers, you must muster all your will to not eat the food while they find the perfect shot.
4. You have no recollection of what you, nor what anyone else ate.
5. You post photos in portrait, all the time.

These are things I discovered over a very rare Friday/Saturday rostered day off work, dining with food bloggers and eating in recently-opened places.

I would like to notify readers that all photos on this blog were taken with an Iphone:

Bread and Dip @ Sahara Restaurant, Parramatta - the winner was definitely the spinach and ricotta concoction. The babaganoush and hommous had a very high 'meh' factor.

No one can go wrong with grilled lamb, yoghurt and mint on the same plate - awesome salad, too - fresh tomato and cucumber flavours with the right touch of lemon juice, oil and seasoning.

Turkish coffee and 'chewy' ice cream. The ice cream had the texture of a french kiss. A very, very, bad one. Couldn't finish... a whole spoon of it.

Moving on to the next culinary location;
@chocolatesuze's for cheese and an indescribable variety of prosciutto! At this point, I would like to publicly thank @thelonefoodie for his generosity in providing the more exotic cured hams - especially those jamons; that black one (excuse my ignorance for not knowing names, but my spanish is rusty) - poetry about the complexity and balance of swine!

On to a recently-opened Jap place in Maroubra: Kokoroya.

Located somewhere on the darker parts of Anzac parade; this place fills the Japanese void in that location - well done guys.

Edamame - this and Sapporo should replace the popcorn and coke at the movies.

Mixed Sashimi and Oysters $25 - nice portions and fresh

Kingfish head w salt $17.50 - would have thought a kingfish head was bigger, but very tasty.

Pork Belly in Soy - $8; great value!

Just remembered about taking a photo of the pork katsu ($12) in the knick of time

That, with a lemongrass liquor and fresh juice cocktail was enough to be very happy with this new Japanese addition to Maroubra.

It was a fun weekend, back to the food factory; double-shift Sunday, can't wait.

Go Hard or Go Home #2

2009-09-08T23:22:00.005+10:00

The 2010 Good Food Guide is out. China Doll is not in it; again! Apparently the manager and some senior wait staff had a fallout with the editors - how funny.

In my last place post I said I would give my thoughts on CoChin @ Surry Hills. First, visit their website and read the reviews.

Now, I must say this to all restaurants out there: don't advertise what is not there. I was looking for the 'signature' slow cooked red duck in brandy tofu and cucumber, but was presented with 'tea smoked duck breast' (after being forced to order it when I really wanted the braised duck with orange), and the 'ground breaking' desserts, was a brulee. Milk. Without the vanilla bean dots.

Tea smoked duck with orange, prune port sauce

Can't go wrong with deep fried quails

Lamb that tastes exactly like the marinated stuff from the Vietnamese butcher

Tempura soft shell crab with papaya salad was one of the better dishes, but could have used some chilli to lift it to the next level.

I think the eating experience here taught me a lot about the eating culture of the East though; I think I know where I'm starting my first restaurant...

Go Hard or Go Home

2009-09-07T23:48:00.008+10:00

That was pretty much the ultimatum my head chef gave me; to push myself to the absolute limit or just leave now. I was already pushed to the point of tears, and wasn't sure if I could keep up anymore. Somehow, most likely by divine intervention, I pulled through the tough weeks and came out stronger. To show for it, pulled off a 67 1/2 hour working week! (And father's day - OMG talk about non-stop ravage!)

To stay sane in that kind of environment however, I squeezed in some time to eat out at Subsolo @ King St and CoChin @ Surry Hills

Subsolo is a fantastic experience; I can see why the tapas trend is picking up so rapidly; and the competition is tight! I've been to tapas bars the likes of Emmilou, and they're all great!

I was at the restaurant and catering awards last year and they won 'Best Spanish restaurant of the Year' - and the owners were hot! I decided I had to check it out;

"I don't like warm olives.M. Said to the Roasted Spanish Olives.

"Just wait for them to cool down"

"Mmmm, much better."

These Crispy Gambas Fritas with chilli and lime aioli were awesome; I only wish they sold these in cinemas - fantastic snack food!

A.M: Me first on the Paella Valencia w/ Chorizo, chicken and mussels!

I'm on the hunt for good paella in Sydney so if you know one please don't keep it to yourself? Please? Although this was pretty decent - no crusty bottom though.

Conversation is dead right about now: Churros filled with dulce de leche, spanish chocolate and honey nougat ice cream.

And the Sangria is definitely the best one I've tried in Sydney (almost as good as mine haha... but seriously). As for the hot waitresses; maybe I'll try a weekday...

CoChin Review tomorrow...

My Ultimate Pork Belly

2009-08-29T12:46:00.014+10:00

Crispy skinned pork belly with celeriac mash and caramelised apples.

Remember that when you buy pork belly that it will shrink when you cook it by as much as 1/3rd! So when you're thinking "that's massive!", it's actually the perfect size.

Singe the hairs off that swine! Then score the skin and rub salt and cracked sechuan peppercorns in it - don't need to be gentle get in there. 2 hours in the fridge.

While it's in the fridge you can get some Braising Liquid ready (good for about 1.5kg of pork belly);

1 onion
4 clove garlic
1 stick cinammon
2 cloves
5 star anise
pinch of sechuan peppercorns and black peppercorns
handful of juniper berries
1L of chicken stock
1 sprig of thyme and rosemary

Sweat off the onions and garlic, add the stock and the spices. Bring to boil, reduce to simmer for 30 minutes.

Time to roast; dry off the skin, rub with olive oil in the oven (roasting pan) for 30 minutes @ 220 degrees, skin side down. After that, pull it out, carefully flip it over, and pour in the braising liquid just before it reaching the skin (because that's the part you want crispy obviously). Back in the oven @ 190 degrees. When the skin is crispy (probably about 1 1/2 hours) it's cooked. if you see the liquid drying out just add water to it (or else it'll burn your pan, and your belly; and will end up looking more like the picture below).

Pull it out let it rest for 15 minutes.

Save that juice from the bottom of the pan! Add some black vinegar (from asian grocers), red wine vinegar, maple syrup (or honey) and some mandarin peel and juice (if not in season, orange will do) - reduce that down by at least 1/2 and you have sexy sauce to cover your crispy belly in!

Pork Belly Plating: image courtesy of Steph @ rasberricupcakes

PS: Get your cleaning gloves out, because your oven will need a good scrub after this juicy version of crispy pork belly.

PSS: It keeps for up 2 days in the fridge! To 'twice-cook' your pork belly; just reheat in a roasting pan with water and a touch of leftover sauce and you have a restaurant quality 'twice cooked'; as you see in many menus around the country.

Tribute to the Kitchenhand

2009-08-24T01:01:00.002+10:00

TV Chefs are loved and hated in our industry. I would say the ones that hate predominantly are jealous that they get the easy celebrity life, while the rest of us slave away. A hater's greatest rage are the celebrity chefs who claim to be chefs (does not include home cooks) but don't work in the kitchen anymore - who are no longer able to keep up with the pace of being a real chef.

I will admit that I am one of those who wishes to make fake smiles and groaning noises about how 'good' the food tastes in front of hot lights and camera then to run out of prep because we've been doing 100+ covers a service.

But this post, I want to pay respects to the other end; the hidden, forgotten side: the boys who makes life for us chefs that much easier; mostly Thais and Bangalis on working visas, earning their PRs for their family the only way they can: in jobs that were nothing like the ones they had back home: Engineers, IT, even some doctors.

These guys clean up barrage after barrage of dishes, hot pots and pans. They also do all those jobs that chefs hate to do; peel potatoes for your hand cut chips, peel onions, ginger, galangal (and oh, how I hate peeling that **it), sort through the salad...

This post is paying respects to you, kitchenhands!

(and to the occasional student who can stand the heat, this goes out to you too)

The adventures of Key Lime Pie

2009-08-20T00:23:00.008+10:00

A and B are characters in this epic adventure;

A: Let's make key lime pie!

A: 17 dollars a kilo for lime?! This better be one damn good pie!

A: The recipe says put sugar in the base; wouldn't that be too sweet? it's shortbread!

B: Yeah, Don't put sugar

A: It says to bake the biscuit base, that's a bit wierd...

B: Tried it before it tastes funny

A: Cool! A pie that doesn't require baking?! I have found a new frien- Damn! My food processor reeks of tumeric! Time to take it back to the old school...

B: This is great there's no sugar in the recipe!

A: That's a great idea; add condensed milk to anything and you can say "no added sugar" haha!

A: Sheeba! Only have enough mix for four!

If you do the costing; that's $5 a pie! Stupid seasonal limes...

B: As long as the photo looks good it's ok

A: Tastes like crazy rich lime cheesecake

Chef's Day Off; Piato

2009-08-17T17:26:00.015+10:00

If you are a chef, knowing how to wind down on your day off is of utmost importance to career-survivability. The mental and physical pressure built up all week must be released with firehose force in order to remain in good spirits for the next grueling week.

I only have one day off this week; but I couldn't have thought of a better way to relax than some good food and wine at Piato, in the chill breaking sunshine.

It's like a slice of rustic Italy in the middle of Blues Point Rd

Started with 1/2 dozen Sydney Rocks with shallot vinaigrette; I knew these were shucked to order because the oyster was still attached to the shell (and it said it on the menu); made for hard (but fresh) eating; note for you oyster shuckers out there - use the shucker to seperate the oyster, too.

Had a mezze plate (you can choose from about 15 different items) with a glass of verdehlo from Little Wine Company, Hunter Valley 07. As always, I find young whites lacking in a lot of complexity a wine should have - but the weather called for it.

I saw the table next to me have the whole octopus on a salad - it's massive! I'm glad I had my tapas size ($8); it was slightly overcooked but the balance of flavours from the blackened chargrill, garlic, olive oil, wine and parsley more than made up for it.

Beef Souvlaki with roasted capsicum and red onions ($8). Well seasoned and tender; this chef knows what he's doing.

Grilled Chorizo ($8) with plenty of garlic oil; made good dipping with the leftover ciabatta toasts.

And this place has never made a disappointing coffee; flat whites of perfect strength and the milk so velvety smooth it has this sweetness to it - every time I've been. That alone keeps me coming back to this place.

so if you want a good coffee for breakfast or have a free lunchtime check it out;

View Larger Map

The way the cookie mysteriously crumbles

2009-08-14T23:18:00.007+10:00

Remember Justine from Masterchef? Versus Matt Moran? Making the the 'too many pears on a plate dessert'? She burnt her crumble, and had to make a new one with 5 minutes to go! - she somehow not only pulled it off, but her cream dollop managed to stay a perfect cornell!

If you've made crumble before, that's a near impossibility - you'll put a hole in your hand touching it after 5 minutes; there's not a chance that you can put anything solid on it for at *least* 15 minutes!

Let me give you a basic crumble recipe so you can test it out for yourself;

100g softened butter
100g pure icing sugar
100g flour
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Mix together well in a mixer (until dough-like). Lay evenly on a flat tray:

Shove it in a 180 degree oven for 10 minutes, pull it out, mix it around with your spatula, back in the oven for another 5, or until golden brown.

break it up as much as you can with your spatula, and leave to cool until you can handle it with your fingers, then break it up more; as much as you can.

You can put this crumble on anything; yoghurt, eat it with ice cream, or my favourite: take some berry compot, some crumble on top; into the oven for 5 minutes, vanilla bean ice cream on top! mmmmm

The best thing, is keep the finished product in an airtight container and it will last for weeks!

Any other creative uses for crumble? Looking at all you dessert foodies

Weapons of Choice

2009-08-10T23:48:00.006+10:00

You've heard it from every chef; what every kitchen needs is a sharp knife. Your food will taste better, look better and you will feel like you can cook anything. No joke. But before I go on about what is the right knife for you, I want to show you my weapons of choice:

Left: My swiss army knife; 26cm MAC Chefs Knife - to chop the biggest of melons, julienne long shards of anything; the most skilled of chefs can do everything with this knife.
Middle: East/West FuriFX chopper - those 'scallop' holes create less friction so I use this knife for cutting birthday cakes and mincing garlic. Of course I wash my knife with soap after each use.
Right: My favourite knife. MAC damascus hand-folded steel vegetable chopper. It just feels sexy.

Top: the first knife I ever owned. To lend to people who forgot/lost their knife.
2nd Above: Flexible filleting knife; for filleting fish, frenching bones, trimming meat.
3rd knife: Global serrated bread knife. Good for bread and passionfruit - just watch your fingers you don't want to take out a finger with this knife. Trust me.
Bottom: Knife Honer. Not to be a called a knife sharpener. I will actually rarely use this; only on cheaper knives - using a whetstone to sharpen a blunt knife is better.

The red knives are the best paring knives money can buy: Victorianox; $5 for a sharp knife that can do anything, and stays sharp for a very long time (that is, if you use it for its intended kitchen purposes).

I also have 2 cleavers for mincing meat, breaking bones and gang fights.

So, which knife do you need? A couple of those paring knives (they're good steak knives, too) and that big chefs knife. That, and the skill to keep your knife sharp and you will feel like a professional, and cook like one too*.

* - may not necessarily cook like a professional

'Quick' Pulled Pork Burger recipe

2009-08-09T11:12:00.005+10:00

This is a lovely pulled pork burger from Hard Rock Cafe, Key West MIA (with a side of mac and cheese mmmm). It was so much juicer than the ones they used to make at Hard Rock, Sydney - no wonder they shut down.

For those of you who have even attempted this sandwich, you will know that it takes 8-10 hours just to cook your pork for this dish!! But have hope, those who do not want to leave the house with stove on - I have one that only takes THREE very short hours.

Lex's 3 hour Pulled Pork Sandwich

1x Smoked pork hock (2, if it's small. Pic as above - but it looks drier)
4x soft, sweet buns (eg: hot dog bun, the one from kfc, tiptop white bread)
100ml white vinegar
1/8th shredded white cabbage

for homemade bbq sauce
100ml tomato sauce
40ml red wine vinegar
70ml maple syrup
1 tsp oregano
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1/2 tsp cumin
3 tbsp worchester
1 tbsp tobasco
pinch of salt and pepper

-------------------------

For pork, put in saucepan of water until completely submerged. Add vinegar. Boil for 3 hours.

For BBQ sauce, add all ingredients together and mix well.

When pork is done, rip the skin and any sinew fat off (when it's cool enough for you to touch), then start shredding the meat with your hands - finer the better, but don't mince it.

Mix pulled pork through the bbq sauce.

Put into sweet bun, shredded cabbage on top and enjoy with sides of baked beans (heated up and mixed with the homemade bbq sauce for bbq flavour), coleslaw, potato salad... goes with anything sweet and vinegary.

Chef's Shortcut ;) Now you don't have to miss Hard Rock Cafe, Sydney. As much. *sniff*

Top 10 I hate about chew (from the other side)

2009-08-05T14:13:00.006+10:00

Simon Thomsen, a respected (well, whom I respect anyway; more so I want his job) food critic/blogger wrote a '10 hates when dining out'. I would like to offer a chef's top 10 gripes for perspective's sake, so...

Ten things chefs hate (not authoritative)

1. Late Tables - Especially on a Sunday afternoon (I'm looking at you all of you who think 3.30pm is an acceptable lunch hour). We're tired, most of us don't even get paid by the hour, and we need all the rest we can get. The last thing we want to do is wait around for half an hour after a dinner rush for one table!

Please, be considerate - if you want dinner after 10 go to a pub, maccas or Chinatown.

2. When you order things not on the menu - If you see a combo of different ingredients from different items on the menu that tickles your fancy, try it yourself when you're at home; don't make me stab you.

3. People with Allergies - No I did not notice that the apprentice did not wash his chopping board after grinding nuts on it; why is it my fault a customer died?

4. "my T-bone/rib eye on the bone is medium and I ordered medium rare" - check near the bone you idiot.

5. When mis en place ends up on the floor - if someone elbowed your pickled ginger, in which you spend an hour peeling, slicing on a mandolin (along with some of your finger) and triple blanching 10kg of ginger all over the floor (in which you also have to waste time cleaning up); you would be peeved.

6. When it's only our station that's getting orders - does the whole restaurant have to order the same thing? and not order entrees?

7. Peeling fresh tumeric - ok, fine maybe it's just me hating orangy-yellow fingers for 3 days.

8. Not having enough time to eat - Imagine, cooking for so many people that you don't have time to eat yourself. That alone is reason to give respect to chefs. Even worse, some places are just so busy you don't even have time for coffee!

9. Dumb*ss waiters who don't communicate to each other - that takes 15 minutes to cook and you took it to the wrong #@$#@ table?!

10. English Chefs in the fine-dining industry - guys, relax. And stop using the 'C' word.

It's good to vent sometimes isn't it? :)

As a disclaimer, I would like to say that the above doesn't happen all the time, and I am lucky enough to be happy for the most of times (albeit, tired) - but our bad days can be near suicidal.

First or last?

2009-08-04T19:42:00.013+10:00

In western culture, we generally drink our miso soup before our mains arrive. In Japan, it signifies the end of a meal. Which is better? As long as the soup is hot, who cares?

I have however, in my mixed up training of French and Asian techniques (aka wannabe Tetsuya) have a recipe for to die for 'Blue Swimmer Crab Miso Soup'.

Blue swimmer crab miso soup served with homemade chirashi

So simple! All you need is:
1/2x onion (or 6 eschallots if you want a sweeter, crabby soup), finely diced
2x garlic clove
1x ripe truss tomato
1x blue swimmer crab, broken up into pieces
600ml chicken stock, 100ml water
2x portions of instant miso soup
(the ones that you get in supermarket in serves of 8 usually)

All you do is sweat of the garlic and the onions on medium heat in some olive oil and SEASON (salt and pepper); this is the most important part in sweating off things in ANY dish in ANY part of the recipe as it brings out of the flavour of what you're sweating!

Next, add the blue swimmer crab until it turns sufficently red, then add the tomatoes and the water. Let it boil and reduce by half, then add the stock. Bring that to the boil, then turn down to a simmer for 30 minutes.

Next, grab a hand blender (or if it's only of mickey mouse size, use your food processor), blend the sheeba out of it, and strain (don't forget to strain, or someone will choke on broken crab bones) back into the pot!

Next, Add the miso soup sachets and all optional condiments that your heart desires (spring onions, silken tofu, wakame seaweed, sesame seeds, etc), If you wish to choose the tasty but unhealthy path, demiglace/finish with a knob of good butter.

There you have it, my blue swimmer crab miso soup (as served at my blog launch luncheon)

Instant Gratification

2009-08-01T21:19:00.002+10:00

If you've never had flavoured butter on a good piece of steak, you do not know yet the definitive meaning of the word 'sexual'.

Good chefs finish everything with butter (deglazing sauce with fat; because we're paid to make it taste good, not keep your waistline) - the fat in the butter coats your tongue with that silky film of flavour that lingers. Just imagine, a beautifully marbled rib eye on the bone, a flavoured high fat content butter mixed with garlic, worcestershire, anchovies, parsley and brandy left to cover, like a silk blanket over your steak...

...the first bite; a burst of iron-rich red meat - then, overtones of booze, salt, sour just embrace your mouth with a sensuality you can barely describe.

This butter is not limited to meat - coat it with blanched green vegetables, or spread it on bread!

The casual name for this butter is 'Cafe de Paris'. You see it in restaurants; but I personally think it should be stocked in every home's freezer because of its versatility.

Cafe De Paris

250g Butter (I personally like Gingar brand, but any high fat content butter will do)
12g Brandy
10 grey anchovy fillets
1 clove garlic, minced
1 bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 sprig of thyme, finely chopped
1/2 tsp of Worcestershire sauce
pinch of sea salt
white pepper to taste

Leave the butter out to soften; if it's in the middle of winter you can put it in the microwave, diced up into 1cm cubes, 10 seconds at a time on high.

In a big mixing bowl, mix all the ingredients with a masher or a whisk until combined well - almost creamed.

In 100g lots, wrap the mix in glad wrap, and leave in the fridge for at least 3 hours.

NB: I know there are a lot of recipes for this butter out there; but I think less is more - I like to taste all the flavours that are in that butter; especially if you are having a really nice piece of steak - appreciate good produce.

the way the schnitzel crumbles...

2009-06-16T23:20:00.001+10:00

a teaser post; I cannot help myself.

Friday NRL game night, at an undisclosed European bar and grill located in the vicinity of the Entertainment Quarter:

"We're going to get raped..." he whispers to himself, visibly trembling. I just started on Tuesday and the week has been pretty dead so far; but it is the weekend.

"We're going to get raped..." the chicken schnitzel chef repeats to himself (there is one chef for each kind of schnitzel); agitating to sort out his mis en place (means 'put in place'; everything a chef prepares to get ready for service). I've met crazy, but this guy has lost it.

He comes over to my garde manger (salad) section; still speaking in hushed tones.

"The boss doesn't like us doing it, but I'm going to start precooking off some now..."

It's 30 minutes before the restaurant opens; how many are you going to cook off?

"maybe I start with 10 kilos" *runs away*

what. the. F.

The Footy Rush. 3000 covers in about 2 hours. The docket machine starts chiming away; Schnitzel. 4 Schnitzel, table of 16 all schnitzels; pork, veal, chicken - I leave my section to help out my poor chicken friend trying to fit gigantic portions of beaten, crumbed fillets into a bratt pan that at most can fit 6 in one go. The dockets keep reeling, all over the floor; a bit more than a meter long. Someone pauses to replace the paper in the machine; it's out. *uck me it's only 10 minutes into service. I'm going to vomit.

The coolroom that keeps these schnitzel is the size of half a tennis court. By the end of the night, it's empty.

Lasted a month in that place.

I've got my rock moves

2009-06-08T01:08:00.001+10:00

Being a chef is not glamorous.

12 hour split shifts (if you can call an hour break between 3pm to 4pm a split), no weekends out, constant exposure to cuts, burns and deadlines - all for close to minimum wage.

So why do I do it?

Love for food? No; I could have just cooked at home, without the pressure, on my day off (which would be a Saturday for normal people).

The rockstar image? Thanks to the many celebrity chefs out there (whom should I add many of them spend very little time in their own kitchen; but I have the highest respects for those who do) - I do admit there is a certain charm with the look someone gives you when you say you are a chef - but at what cost?

For me? It is because I am accepted. There is a culture in the kitchen that no one can understand - the etiquette of normal society do not apply in the kitchen; you get a kind of team atmosphere that you see with team sports on ESPN (which, honestly, if I had the talent would have been my preferred profession), with more vulgarity (amongst other things that can happen behind closed doors). But yet, a certain respect and discipline when it comes to the food.

And I get to play with some very expensive, exclusive ingredients. For free.

And in this line of work, the beer tastes better than you can ever imagine.

Welcome to Vue de Cuisinier - the foodie that will put up with rubbish for pay and a soul-draining lifestyle, just to be around food all the time, for God knows what reason.

I hope that revelation comes soon.

Official Blog launches on the 2nd August 09 - Stay Tuned